J. JS Lee
So as some of you long time followers know, I live for London Fashion Week, its like Santa coming to town twice in one year! I feel very privileged that I am able to go and experience the collections first hand. It’s also great to see how some of these young designers have grown over the last few years, and how their career has developed. H
The first show I attended on Friday last week, was J. JS Lee. Originally from Seoul, Korea, she came to London to take the Post Graduate Pattern Course at Central Saint Martin in 2007. And after her two years of working as a pattern cutter at Kisa London she came back to study at Central Saint Martin for her MA degree.
Inspired by her childhood and in particular the memory of her mother hand-stitching garments, Lee wanted to create a “woman as a bit different and on the eccentric side. She has tomboyish characteristics but as a woman she has a feminine sensitivity, which she brings to her work,” said Lee, on describing her collection. There was a good dose of sexiness here too, gently rippling wide pleats fronting dresses and sinuous silhouettes for knits and lithe long dresses.
After a few hours wait from the morning show, I was off to Eudon Choi. Eudon is an absolute master at outerwear, it’s what he’s built his label on since he launched it back in 2009. Solid leather jackets with geometric configurations inspired by the Japanese architectural movement Metabolism came out and were combined with Seventies flares in wallpaper florals of teal and shocking pink.
Next romance was in the air, with floaty chiffon ladies wafting down the Catwalk, with a Victorian/ seventies edge to them. You almost smell the lilies and the roses. Black gothic and lace territory, filtered into pretty lilacs and opulent gold for pussy-bow-billowing blouses and natty little jackets. As ever, his warrior women marched out in parade for the finale.
One of my favourites of the day. Do you know I have been wearing tho label since I was eleven, and still have those pieces which I can still squeeze into! This season it stepped away from its usual classic checks, and pushed Daks boundaries into the future. Girls clad in biker caps, natty Sixties colour-blocked shifts and quilted biker jackets and gilets took to the catwalk.
“It’s completely different,” said creative director Filippo Scuffi, a much bolder approach has been taken. There were softer moments too – the tulip printed skirts to contrast the tough biker chick persona that set the scene. And while the proposition seemed a lot bolder overall, that was mostly down to the styling – there were actually plenty of classic and softer pieces among the line-up.