Day 1 was perhaps my busiest day at Fashion Week. I was a little late rising, and was having some what of a bad hair day, so based my outfit around that. I grabbed my Moschino cap and bag, then simply wore a black leather skirt, and t-shirt, and tottered around Somerset House in my Giuseppe Zanotti heels.
Kicking off London Fashion Week was J.JS Lee. There was plenty of Lee’s signature sporty tailoring on offer – modern polo shirts, sweatshirts and tennis-style dresses – demonstrating perfectly what she does so well season after season: beautifully wearable clothes. There are always classic shapes and styles on offer in her collections, but with the modern twist of an unexpected fabric or an unusual cut.
Mullet hems – that’s skirts that are longer at the back than at the front – played a big part, and appeared on capes, too. The colour palette was mostly neutral, save for a flash of lime green or peach here and there. We were particularly taken with the navy tailoring that had a pop of colour at a jaunty angle. This theme of angles, and curves as well, continued throughout, manifesting in square motifs with a circle inside and perhaps most cleverly, almond toed shoes with squared off soles.
The next show I went to was Bora Aksu. For the first half of the show we saw beautifully crafted dresses and two-piece sets which were a safe choice of Spring / Summer nudes and white hues. The designs are all very fitting with the inspiration Bora Aksu drew on for this collection – Marie Taglioni. Marie was a famous ballerina, the first to dance ‘en pointe’ to be precise. This collection portrays her rise to fame as such, and the trials and tribulations she faced.
Whilst referencing the classic ballerina tones of peach and pink we do see in the second half of the show dark shades of black, cobalt and lilac blues present themselves. Whilst there is certainly a presence of darker hues, the vibe remained incredibly light and airy – keeping a the delicate feel.
The final show I saw that day was Jean Pierre Bragaza, who I have watched grow over the last couple of years. His collections have gone from strength to strength, and this season being no exception. Braganza brought us a deconstructed New York, with a plethora of motorcycle prints in a collection entitled ‘Architectonic’. When closely examined the prints are highly detailed including angels, engines and even skulls.
My personal favourite piece from the collection was a jumpsuit with cut out organza panels, and an over sized white leather biker jacket. The cut and fit was spot on, but the aesthetic was even greater, creating a bold but classy look. A hint of Paris chic, in short, this collection was concise, with hints of darkness that I am always looking out for. Bravo JPB