On saturday I was back under the arches of Somerset House. The leaves on the catwalk hinted to expect an autumnal them, ahead of the Jasper Conran show. Conran has been thinking about the sort of girl who’s always elegant and appropriately attired, whatever the weather or occasion. The kind of girl you want to be. This winter, Conran plans to cloak you in richness – from the palette to the embellishment and fabrics. Plum, mulberry, russet, navy, olive and rich brown were cut with the occasional bright print – violet pansies or geometric citrus – green hexagons – in a plethora of tactile fabrics: heavy cashmere wool; haircalf; patchworked suede; sheepskin; silk and devoré velvet.
Boudoir glam was the theme at Holly Fultpn’s show. Frothy-edged lounge coats that boasted crystals at their cuffs and collars, bouffant hair and slip-style or prom dresses beneath, shimmering at the strap or by sequins trickling down them. Holly Fulton took her inspiration this afternoon from TV melodrama Tales of the Unexpected, among other eclectic references. “We were looking at pictures of women and cats in the Sixties,” she said by way of fun and “off-kilter” (the buzzword of the show) explanation.
This year I also went to shows, organised by Fashion Scout that house some emerging designers, that we should be keeping an eye out for. Set in the stunning Freemasons Hall, first up for me was the Mimi Tran show, where the models strutted alluringly down the runway, their Rita Hayworth curls bouncing seductively to the beat. Delicate layers of lace, sequins and geometric print enveloped the models in long thigh-split gowns and equally in shorter more flirty versions.Tight and body-conscious silhouettes meant the focus was on the intricate detailing of floral embellishments and decadent beadwork. The sheer white wedding dress finale complete with lace trimmed veil and delicate beadwork was a showstopper.
Inspired by a woodland theme, Jan embraced the forest and bought it to us at Fashion Scout. The whole range bought together the practicality of fashion, but seemed to go hand in hand with the elegance of women. I just loved the chunky knit jumpers and tight fitted skirts, they really were the star pieces from this collection. Apu Jan put a new spin on the classic wooly jumper, showing that it can be sexy too.